If the new register (diffuser) for the bathroom is closer to the furnace than the existing registers, it could drain off a disproportionate share of the warm air from the duct.
If they're unlucky, the so-called supply vent actually sucks air out of the room.
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I could probably do without, but I thought it would be wise to have heated air going in on days that the shower is used, just to help circulate and remove any moist air and prevent any sort of dampness issues. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top
And his living room will still smell like his bathroom.
I did have a friend who did this and he said that every once in a while you would get a whiff of a dump from the other bathroom. site design / logo © 2020 Stack Exchange Inc; user contributions licensed under
The ducting for each leg of the Y adapter to each washroom must be nearly identical. Learn more about Stack Overflow the company
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And, you should probably Both washrooms must have nearly identical square-footage. It is not a good idea to change that.
Nothing in the IRC actually touches on this.
You could run both vent ducts to the same area and then install two vent caps side-by side. The family room has 2 vents(registers) where the family room meets the new room, and because of convenience they extended the 2 into the new room.
1. I'm thinking about changing the setup so both run out the side with their own wall vent.
Other than the possible drifts of odor from the bathroom the livingroom via the ducting there is nothing wrong with the idea, especially if you add a means of balancing the two amounts of air. The bathroom itself I dont expect to be too cold anyways.
If you put in an adjustable louvered register, then you could balance the flow. So both are ON or both are OFF. Personally I would rather vent one to the attic then tie them together.How about this...use a non-motorized ceiling vent and tie it's 4" duct into the existing fan's duct with that Y adapter.
Thanks for the answer; keep 'em coming. Basically they want go up to feed original duct, then keep going and feed new … If you wanted to keep the volume to the living room you could increase the line size upstream of the new branch, say if it was 6" make it 7" and then add a reducer after the new duct tap.
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That's fine cause they were lined up perfect. But run only the ductwork with a Y adapter. You can replace the fan opening with a grill for each washroom.
The run is only perhaps 6ft total and I ran two 4" into a 6".
But we should build a mockup, test it, and write a blog post about the experiment.The problem with this, would be finding a vent cap.Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. And his living room will still smell like his bathroom.We use cookies to improve your experience on this website and so that ads you see online can be tailored to your online browsing interests. It only takes a minute to sign up.I have two bathroom exhaust fans that need to be vented out of the house, but I'd like to do it using a single wall penetration.
Your wall opening would have to be twice as big, but at least you would only have to do one cut, flashing, etc.That being said, the only plausible workaround is to install no fans in the washrooms. Obviously I can do this, but is it wise?
I was thinking, to get heat into the new bathroom, just cutting into the duct and adding a diffuser (or whatever you call them) to blow into the bathroom. If those three vents actually serve different rooms, one room is going to get way too much air while the other two actually get no conditioned air...if they're lucky.
5" duct is 1.5 times bigger than a 4" (and a 6" is 1.5 times bigger than a 5") so that would probably mitigate.
The heat run for the living room was sized for that area only.
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If you put in an adjustable louvered register, then you could balance the flow.Yeah, I looked at that, but just the way the joists and existing duct work are, its not really possible without significant rearranging of stuff (more than it would be worth).
I used the same dampers shown above, the cloth ones.
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Plus each fan has its own damper built into the housing.
This is true, drifting odor, unless you have an exhaust fan running.
To close off a room or an entire section of your home to air-conditioning and/or heating this is the correct way to do it.
How bad do you want your living room to smell?
It is not a good idea to change that. When both fans are running at the same time (both taking a shower) the smaller fan gets totally overwhelmed and cannot move enough air. When inline fan is in operation, air from both washrooms will vent out. Is there a code compliant, safe way to do this?I don't know about code compliance. Im not worried about some of the heat being diverted, just not all of it. Detailed answers to any questions you might have
I would add another vent off of the main trunk line. 3. But, this might work for you:2 Backdraft Dampers (one on each leg) at the Y to stop the backflow of noxious gases from one fan(on) to the other (off).Note that the backdraft dampers will add to the resistance of the duct work.
1 Y-Connector at the outside vent. Featured on Meta
Not one or the other. But I suppose as the above poster mentioned, having an adjustable louvers would limit the air diversion. Pressure and velocity should increase to compensate somewhat. Both washrooms doors are expected to be in closed position when inline fan is in operation. Im installing a bathroom in the basement.
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